An early train at 7 a.m. would take me to Varanasi that morning. Arriving to the station, while looking at the board to find my platform I noticed that my train was delayed and it was going to depart one hour and a half later from platform 10. I decided to make some time, listen to music, look at the people; you name it. I had several minutes to use my time in new inventive ways. When the time was getting closer, I was not seeing any sign of my train. I was already on the platform number 10. So I went back up to the aisle to look for my train and it said that it was departing front platform 9 (in front of platform 10). Just at the moment that I was coming down, I saw my train departing and leaving me behind. I have been sitting all that time with my back to my train. So my first reaction was to go back to the tickets office to see what I could do.
For the first time I saw a ticket queuing system at a station in India. I had to queue to get a ticket. It went pretty straightforward because I did not make the queue as an Indian guy made me go straight to the counter. There, a young lady who spoke a very good English, helped me with the next steps: First to get a refund of 50% the value of my ticket and second she recommend me that because I could not get a reserved sit anymore in any train of that day, the best option was to get a bus to Varanasi. So, I followed that advice.
Knowing that a rickshaw would charge me between 20 to 30 rupees to the bus station, I went out ready to negotiate. Hearing crazy proposals of 100 rupees and around, I finally got one to take me to the bus station for 30. Arriving to the station and always with an optimistic (or unrealistic) mindset, I was looking for my Volvo bus with Air Conditioning that would take me to Varanasi. Well, no such service existed, so I grab one of the local buses that depart every 30minutes. No air-conditioning but instead a window that could open, Indian music and a good view of the road.
Three hours took me to arrive to Varanasi, here for 120 rupees (Indian price) I got a tuc tuc that could take me to my hotel. The Ganesha Palace. Arriving to this hotel felt like heaven. After being in (very) low budget hotels, this felt like heaven. I had a terrace with parasols, the house was painted, my sheets were clean, the toilet was clean and I even had my own toothbrush and toothpaste. Everything felt good. I was planning to use this hotel and these days to recharge my energies and get some time away from the busy and heavy cities I had been to.
The next day I wanted to go see the sacred Ghats at the Ganges River, going to ask to my hotel reception for the price and which Ghats are the most important ones, they offered me a very nice deal. A private roaring boat that would take me to the cremation Ghats and to see the daily ceremony in the main Ghats.
Looking at the Ghats from the river is an amazing experience. It feels like a movie where the camera moves from left to right showing different little events one after the other. You start with a sinking temple, then you see two children. playing in the water, after that you see many grown-up men bathing in the river. You see dogs and cows also on the steps, until you reach the unavoidable: the cremation Ghats. First you start smelling some smoke mixed with a light sandalwood scent. Then you see it, right there it stands. People standing there, a corpse covered in a yellow beautiful Indian cloth waiting to be cremated. You can also see there the grey ashes of several corpses still smoking and I don’t know why, but a cow stood also there mixed with the people.
On our way to the main Ghats to see the ceremony that would start at dawn, the wind started to blow very aggressively, little waves started to form on the river and rain was coming. It was better to look for shelter. A building in from of the altar was the best place I could find. By that time, the rain was only drizzle and I could enjoy the magical experience of this Hindu ritual looking at 1 priest and seven helpers during 1 amazing hour of chants, music, bells, incense, fire and lot of devotion.
Having seeing this part of Varanasi and having the batteries already recharged, I planned to go up north and cross the border into Nepal. I am already very curious of what that country will have to offer.
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